Bur Dubai, Dubai guide

The wooden ‘abra’ is Dubai’s answer to the water taxi. Up until 1963, it was your only option for crossing Dubai Creek, the city’s main waterway. Catch one to the neighbourhood of Deira, home to an open-air gold market where the products are all government-regulated — but the haggling is up to you.

Bigger is always better in Dubai, and picture frames are no exception. Sitting in Zabeel Park, the Dubai Frame dazzles at nearly 150 metres tall, offering a view between old and new Dubai. Learn how the city went from a humble fishing port to a 21st-century metropolis. And don’t miss the observation sky deck for adrenaline-fuelled panoramas.

Soar across the sand on a desert safari, keeping your eyes peeled for oryx, gazelle and Arabian wolves. Once hunger strikes, join a Bedouin tribe for dinner beneath the stars. Entertainment includes belly dancers and fire breathers, and a camel selfie is all but essential. The best part? This desert escape is just 30 minutes from your doorstep.

La Mer in Jumeirah 1 is a no-frills beach close to Bur Dubai. Approximately 15 minutes away is Jumeirah Beach, a wide stretch of sand overlooked by the Burj Al Arab. Its mid-sized waves are ideal for beginner surfers, and floodlights allow for swimming under the stars. Plus, amenities like sun loungers and cabanas make for a comfortable day by the beach.

The narrow lanes of Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood will transport you to the 19th century. The Dubai Museum, in Al Fahidi Fort, traces the city’s evolution from trading port to oil-rich playground. Al Shindagha’s Perfume House is another noteworthy museum in Bur Dubai. Learn about the role of perfume in Emirati culture before mixing your own.

Bur Dubai is home to many of the African and South Asian workers who built this futuristic metropolis. As such, some of the best restaurants in Bur Dubai cater to the tastes of this diverse neighbourhood. Definitely try traditional Emirati fare — think grilled fish followed by sugary fried dumplings doused in date syrup. To fit in, do as the locals do and ditch the cutlery.

Lingering over dinner is typical of families in Dubai, with children welcome whatever the hour. While alcohol is heavily regulated in the city, you’ll have no trouble finding stylish bars waterside. For the ultimate Arabian night, opt for a dhow dinner cruise and watch Dubai Creek glimmer under the city lights.

Long before the city’s colossal shopping complexes, there were ‘souks’ (open-air markets) — and none more beautiful than Old Dubai’s textile souk. Choose between silks, satins and chiffons for an expertly tailored souvenir. Or grab something off the rack if you’re short on time. The Dubai Shopping Festival draws huge crowds, while Summer Surprises further tempts with deals, competitions and concerts.

There’s always something to celebrate in Dubai. Get involved in Arabic and Islamic culture during Ramadan — tourists are not required to fast but are welcome to join in. Iftar is a feast marking the end of fasting, celebrated by many restaurants at sunset. Eid and UAE National Day offer their own events, traditional entertainment and fireworks displays.